Scarpa Vapor V

As the fall season started this year, I found myself in need of a new pair of shoes.  While many boulderers and sport climbers have an arsenal of shoes, sometimes even wearing different shoes on each foot for a single climb, I prefer to have one or two pairs that I use for everything.  Perhaps if I were pushing closer to my genetic limit, I would require that extra bit of send power, but given my current status, I prefer to know my shoe and be comfortable in it.

For the last several years, my go to shoe has been the La Sportiva Muira (laceup).  It knuckles up my big toe to concentrate power, it edges, it's surprisingly comfy, and its durable.  But its made me complacent - are there other better shoes out there?  Not quite ready to drop $160 to continue my love affair, I picked up some Scarpa Vapor V's and put the savings towards continuing my actual love affair with my girlfriend.  And so far, I am pretty happy with my choice.

The Vapor V's have a dual velcro closure over a padded and elasticized tongue, leather uppers and sturdy Vibram rubber sole.  The velcro is faster than laces, but the shoe doesn't slip on as easily making this shoe more cumbersome in the event you take it off on a multi-pitch route, but less hassle at the boulders or your single pitch sport crag.  Once on however, the shoe feels quite secure.  The full leather uppers do stretch; while remaining secure on your foot, they feel a little baggy after breaking in.  The full leather uppers are also showing a bit of wear just behind my toes from dragging along the rock or the occasional crack.  The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber is great.  It is plenty thick, which is great for durability, and at my level (low 5.12s), its sensitive enough.  They have performed admirably all around:  at bouldering (secure heel hooks), sporty face climbing, and even some cracks (though given the scrunched nature of the foot, it is obviously not playing to their design).

I've lodged a few complaints above, but those are very nit picky details so that you know what you are getting.  The bottom line is this:  I am happy with my purchase and have worn these bad boys on some proud sends this fall.  I look forward to using them on winter training and for the spring rope season.  That said, after a resole, I'll be saving up an extra $20-30 and getting my lace up muiras again - more durable uppers, same rubber with more flex and sensitivity in the sole, a toe box that fits me a little better, and an easy slip on for casual climbing.  Returning to the Muiras with a more critical foot, perhaps I'll be less impressed...